Shirts for Men
Shirts: material, cut, collar shape, colors and patterns
No proper outfit without shirts! Whether in business or at formal events: a well-fitting, stylish and high-quality dress shirt is not just part of it, it is a must. A men's wardrobe simply cannot do without men's shirts . But well-dressed men do not wear just any shirt; they wear one that suits the occasion and is adapted to their style. There are several points to consider, such as the collar, material, pattern, colors and, of course, the right cut. With the following tips, any man can become a well and appropriately dressed gentleman.
Material: What fabric should good shirts be made of?
The material is not just a question of comfort. The various fibers and weaves differ quite clearly from one another in their properties. The most important criterion: synthetic fibers are light, inexpensive and usually non-iron. Natural fibers are kinder to the skin, breathable and, depending on the weaving technique, significantly higher in quality. To keep washing and ironing effort low, non-iron shirts are recommended; after washing they only need to be briefly pulled into shape.
Tip: Especially with white pieces, men should absolutely make sure they are opaque. Chest hair or underwear must not be visible!
The following materials and weaves in particular should be distinguished:
- Poplin: This cotton fabric (partly wool) is the classic. The material is opaque, feels pleasant on the skin and is very finely finished. Poplin shirts are the first choice for the office and evening events.
- Fil-a-Fil: This fabric is very finely woven from two colors. This creates a very light, seemingly irregular mixed tone. It looks elegant and trendy, but is not suitable for evening events. Fil-a-Fil fabrics are just as welcome as a business outfit as they are for elegant casual looks.
- Silk: Silk shirts feel cool and pleasantly light on the skin. They are good alternatives for summer, but as a sophisticated casual look they belong more in the leisurewear segment. In addition to real silk, there is the synthetic fiber alternative satin, which is somewhat less prone to tearing and creasing.
- Linen: Linen shirts are clearly casual outfits. They come in very fine and somewhat coarser versions. Both are very breathable and have a slightly cooling effect on the skin. They are part of relaxed summer outfits. With a straight cut, they may also hang out over the trousers.
- Oxford: Unlike poplin, Oxford is a very robust material. Oxford shirts are hard-wearing and feel very comfortable on the skin. Undyed and dyed threads are often interwoven, creating a small diamond pattern. This makes them look somewhat sportier and more suitable for leisurewear.
- Chambray: This type of fabric is very popular due to a special feature. Chambray shirts have a glossy look, because here, as with Oxford, undyed and dyed yarns are interwoven. The result is a slightly shimmering effect that goes especially well with a suit. They are ideal companions for the office or for official occasions that are not too upscale.
- Gingham: Gingham or Vichy shirts impress with a very small check pattern. This makes them look extremely casual. They are only suitable for the office to a limited extent, but they can be combined with jeans or chinos to create very stylish casual looks. If you are bold, let the shirt hang over the trousers.
- Denim: Denim shirts have been part of fashion for decades. However, they should be combined with care. Men may wear fine denim shirts tucked into their trousers and without a tie under a jacket in the office. All other dress shirts made from this rather heavy fabric belong in leisurewear. There, they can also flutter open over the waistband, and a man may open the top two buttons.
- Flannel: The flannel shirt, known as the lumberjack shirt, has been impossible to imagine fashion without since the 1990s at the latest. The material is soft and usually somewhat thicker. Therefore, such designs do not fit into the office either in terms of material or pattern. Flannel shirts are genuine casual shirts that look wonderful on a man at festivals as well as in the garden or while shopping.
- Synthetic fibers: Many Body Fit men's shirts contain at least a proportion of synthetic fibers. These make a body-hugging cut possible in particular. However, the easy-care material should be high-quality, as it tends to lose its shape in the washing machine.
The perfect fit: What should men look for in shirts?
Very important for the perfect fit of a dress shirt: there are no uniform sizes and patterns. Each manufacturer tailors its men's shirts differently from the competition. So common sense helps: Modern Fit, Slim fit and Body Fit shirts like OLYMP Level 5 emphasize the slim silhouette of slender and athletic men. Stronger guys, on the other hand, opt for Comfort Fit or loose-fitting shirts. The size is usually indicated by the collar size. Here, only experience or a look at the size charts can help. This also applies to sleeve length, which is a second important size measurement, and to waist circumference.
If you do not know your measurements, use a tape measure: neck length plus one centimeter, abdominal circumference plus approx. five centimeters, and the length from the shoulder to the wrist give the three important measurements for a well-fitting men's shirt. In practice, the fit can be tested easily. Raise your arms and lower them again. If it now sticks out of the trousers in an unflattering way, it fits poorly. If the wrists are not covered, it is too short. If less or more than a finger's width fits inside the closed collar, it is also the wrong size.
Fashionable details: shirt pockets and cufflinks
Men can show courage when it comes to cuffs. Especially on formal occasions and in senior positions, elegant cufflinks are the perfect sleeve fastening. These should remain discreet. Horn buttons are therefore a particularly good choice. Metal cuffs, on the other hand, are often too conspicuous. However, fashion statements with these accessories are also acceptable depending on the occasion.
Shirt pockets, on the other hand, tend to be more suitable for leisurewear. For more refined outfits, shirts without pockets are clearly the better choice. Pilot shirts with two breast pockets, however, are very difficult for evening events and the office. Men with style should definitely avoid them for these occasions.
Which collar for which occasion?
No collar is like another. There are Kent, cutaway, tab, button-down and many other shirt collars. Each has its place and each suits different occasions. Anyone buying a men's shirt should pay attention to the right collar.
Cutaway: The cutaway collar is the not quite so conservative classic. Its trademark is the points reminiscent of shark fins. It is ideal under a suit. The wide collar leaves require a buttoned-up shirt adorned with a well-tied tie.
- Kent: The Kent collar is the classic all-rounder for men's shirts. With it, men always make the right choice, whether they want to cut a fine figure at the office, go to an evening event or wear a nice dress shirt in their leisure time. The Kent has wide, pointed ends, and men can wear shirts with this collar both with and without a tie or bow tie.
- Eton: The Eton collar is a variant of the Kent. It matches it in every detail, but has rounded corners. This small difference makes it very interesting for designers.
- New Kent: The New Kent is also suitable for many occasions. The collar is a Kent, but already clearly resembles the cutaway collar. Unlike with the latter, however, men may do without a tie with it.
- Italian Kent: The "young Kent" is a collar that appears more casual and sporty. Nevertheless, it is also well suited to the office. It is significantly narrower than a normal Kent. Men wear it open or with a narrow tie.
- Tab: The tab collar is a very conservative collar. Its trademark is a small fabric loop that holds the collar together. This collar type is excellent for evening events. But: such shirts are never worn without a well-knotted tie!
- Wing collar: Even stiffer is the wing collar. On this particularly elegant type, the ends are folded over into a triangle that forms an almost horizontal line with the opposite side. Shirts with this collar, known as a "Vatermörder", belong with a tailcoat or a tuxedo. A bow tie, elegant bow, or—depending on the occasion—a tie knotted with a Windsor is mandatory.
- Button-down: The complete opposite is the button-down collar. This collar is fastened to the shirt at its pointed ends with a small button. This looks sporty and casual, and men may leave this collar type open without a tie. Shirts with button-down collars are primarily leisure shirts. Depending on the job, this makes them just about okay in the office, but an absolute no-go for official occasions.
What distinguishes branded shirts?
Branded shirts from well-known brands such as OLYMP, Eterna, Seidensticker Schwarze Rose and Venti are characterized by high-quality fabrics, cuts and workmanship. This results in a long lifespan for men's shirts, with high-quality button fastenings, seams and color fastness even after many washes.
What colors and patterns may shirts have?
As with the material, there are also major differences in colors and patterns. In general, men should primarily wear white for upscale occasions and in business. Discreet colors such as light blue or anthracite are also acceptable.
Tip: The almost always suitable combination for business and evening events is a dark grey or anthracite suit with a white shirt and a subtly patterned tie.
The bolder the colors of men's shirts are, the more likely men should wear them in their leisure time. When it comes to colors, another very individual aspect comes into play: skin color and hair color, even eye color, can clash with many bold colors. Men should therefore examine very carefully what type they are and choose their shirt colors accordingly. Pale blond men in pastel shirts usually look less than flattering. Strong, not too dark colors usually suit them better. Darker types, on the other hand, are often not particularly well suited to bright red and green tones. But nevertheless: men show courage and choose colors. Shades of pink, bold colors, earth tones - in leisure time, anything you like is allowed.
Caution is also advised when it comes to patterns. The more official the occasion, the more likely patterns are frowned upon. Even a chambray shirt can then already look "underdressed". Conversely: the more striking the pattern, the more likely it is to be a casual shirt. Checked shirts, small dots or even large-scale motif prints belong in leisure time. It is a no-go to combine coarsely patterned or heavily printed shirts with equally wildly patterned ties. The old fashion rule applies: large patterns with small patterns and few patterns with strong contrasts. A patterned tie therefore goes excellently with a plain shirt. A tie with wide bars goes with a men's shirt with a pinstripe pattern. Despite everything: for festive occasions and in the office, classic-conservative outfits are the optimal choice. Dots, stripes, motifs and even the comic tie belong in leisure time.
However men decide: high-quality branded shirts support the outfit. Men are welcome to try out fashion in their leisure time and sometimes also in the office, but should always fall back on the classics - cut in a fashionable, up-to-date way - according to the occasion. Then beautiful long-sleeved shirts are not only a good choice, but also testify to true style.
Shirts by color:
By size:
Which fit is right for me – Comfort Fit, Modern Fit, Super Slim or Body Fit?
The right fit depends on your build and the wearing comfort you want:
- Comfort Fit has a wide, straight fit. This fit is suitable for a fuller figure or if you prefer a particularly high degree of freedom of movement.
- Modern Fit is slightly tailored and the most common fit. It suits normal to athletic body shapes and offers a balanced mix of comfort and a modern cut.
- Super Slim is more strongly tapered and cut close to the body. This fit is suitable for slim or athletic figures without fitting as tightly as Body Fit.
- Body Fit fits very closely to the body and clearly emphasizes the silhouette. This fit is intended for very slim or athletic builds.
How do I find my correct shirt size and how do I measure collar size and sleeve length?
You determine your shirt size by collar size and sleeve length.
- You measure the collar size with a measuring tape loosely around the neck, just below the Adam’s apple. There should be about one finger’s width between the neck and the measuring tape.
- You measure the sleeve length from the shoulder point to the wrist with the arm slightly bent.
Measurements are more reliable than ready-to-wear sizes such as M or L, as they are more accurate in fit .
How should a shirt fit properly – how do I recognize the right size?
- A well-fitting shirt lies smoothly on the shoulders without pulling. The shoulder seam ends at the shoulder point, not beyond it.
- The sleeves reach to the wrist, even when the arms are moved. On the torso, the shirt should neither pull strongly nor look baggy.
- When fastened, you should be able to move comfortably without the buttons pulling or fabric creases forming.
Which shirt suits which occasion – business, casual or wedding?
For businessoccasions, shirts made from smooth fabrics such as poplin or twill in muted colors and with a classic collar are suitable.
Casual and leisure shirts may be more textured have patterns and are often worn without a tie.
For weddings light colors, fine fabrics and often double cuffs are suitable. The occasion, dress code and the formal impression of the shirt are decisive.
Which shirt can you wear without a tie – and which collar is suitable for this?
Without a tie, shirts with a Kent collar or button-down collar are particularly suitable.
These collars retain their shape even when worn open their shape. Very stiff or widely spread collars often look unfinished without a tie.
Slightly tailored fits support a neat yet relaxed look.
Which collar shape suits my face shape?
- Wide-spread collars such as the cutaway collar balance out round face shapes well and look modern.
- The Kent collar is versatile and suits almost all face shapes and occasions.
- Button-down collars look sportier and are particularly suitable for leisure or business casual .
- The tab collar has a slim cut and is always worn with a tie . The small tab between the collar points slightly lifts the tie knot, which looks particularly harmonious with narrow or elongated face shapes .
What is the difference between non-iron and easy-iron shirts?
- Non-iron shirts smooth themselves after washing largely on their own and require little or no ironing.
- Easy-iron shirts still need to be lightly ironed but are easier to care for than classic shirts.
The surcharge for non-iron shirts is especially worthwhile for regular wear in everyday business life or when there is little time for care.
Which material is suitable for which season – and which one for warmth?
- Poplin is lightweight, smooth and breathable. This type of fabric is particularly well suited to summer and warm temperatures.
- Twill is somewhat heavier, softer to the touch and less prone to creasing. It is suitable for year-round use, especially for autumn and winter.
- Oxford fabrics are more robust, more textured and have a sportier look. They are comfortable for leisure wear and transitional seasons.
- Flannel is softly brushed and warmer than other fabrics. Flannel shirts are ideal for cold days.
Which shirts should be worn tucked in – and which over the trousers?
- Business shirts are generally cut longer and are intended to be worn tucked in .
- Casual shirts are often cut shorter and can easily be worn over the trousers .
A look at the hem shape helps: a more strongly rounded hem usually indicates that the shirt should be worn tucked in.
How do I properly care for and wash shirts so they last a long time?
- Shirts should be washed at 30 to a maximum of 40 degrees washed, turned inside out and cleaned with a low spin speed .
- Mild detergent is gentle on the fabric. It is best to hang the shirt up damp after washing.
- High temperatures in the dryer are the most common cause of shrinkage. In addition, follow the care instructions on the label.